sander and sensibility

At work, unable to blog or surf around too much, and yet eager for a bit of fashion stimulation, I lit upon NYT's On the Runway and read with much interest the discussion over Raf Simon's latest for Jil Sander. I am increasingly a fan of his work, and this collection was really quite lovely, and because I am too lazy to go into why all over again, here's what I posted on the comments section of the blog -

"I feel a bit silly banging on abt Jil Sander long after everyone’s moved on to Prada, but on with it anyway...

I hate his trousers and his shoes, but what I like best about Raf Simons is that he’s not afraid to make a uniform for women, and take his time to offer beautifully crafted versions of a single aesthetic. This season, they were flattering most of the time - a contrast, I feel, with this earlier looks, and a good thing. It lacks a little sensuality but for what looks like rather heavy fabrics, the dresses and sculpted jackets are very graceful.

I miss Jil Sander - I love watching a designer evolve (see how Helmut Lang changed over time! ) and I agree that her vision was a lot more varied than what one tend to remember, but we all do what we can, and given the time, I’m sure Mr Simons’s offerings will grow into something unexpected and different - if Nicolas Ghesquiere can go from parkas and skinny trousers to couture blooms, then I’m pretty excited to see what Mr Simons can pull off next."

I used to find some of his designs somewhat unflattering to women - perhaps it had more to with the wan, weary way the shows were styled, but I like the somewhat softened quality of his designs of late. I really love the jackets because they have a somewhat street quality, but refined, and the tailoring is sharp, but not slick.

And here are the pictures -

Pictures from


Popular Posts