calvin klein cool

I want to just, like, plaster photos of the Calvin Klein fall collection onto my wall and just look at them, because for me, it's such an amazing feeling to see such clarity of vision - the cool confidence of someone who understands what he or she wants to say, and says it with devastating simplicity. I haven't always liked what Francisco Costa did at Calvin Klein - I could never put my finger on it but it just seemed that he couldn't quite hit the right note (sometimes heavy, sometimes bland, sometimes impractical). But this collection just spoke volumes to me - the lean, almost graphic silhouettes, the mix of fabrics - it's clothes I want to see up close and put on and see how all those lines look on me.

My personal sense of dress is a little looser and scruffier than the looks shown, but
I'm just totally drawn in by the straightforwardness of it all. And it's simple, but not simplistic - I think it's well thought out but not over-intellectual, and yes, there were shades of Stefano Pilati for YSL and Raf Simons for Jil Sander, but there's still a sense of ease and softness, a certain nod in the direction of American sportswear.

And I don't think you can duplicate this level of subtlety - no doubt someone will have a stab at knocking off one of those gently curved and nipped dresses (probably Zara) but the lack of quality will probably be all too evident. This is the sort of thing luxury goods houses should be making - things that are all too difficult to make on the cheap, and absolutely worth paying for. This collection plus Narciso Rodriguez's, is probably my favourite out of all the fashion week shows.

I think Mr Costa benefited from having the time to slowly prove himself and hammer out his message - I don't know enough about the fashion industry to understand the mechanics behind why, but it seems to me few have been that fortunate. It feels like designers are expected to produce that perfect hit collection the very first time these days, and really, how many people have that kind of talent and control to finesse something like that? Now that Mr Costa has gotten my hopes up, I do hope this isn't a one-off event.

Pictures from www.nym


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