that's it?

I read on that John Galliano has hopped onto the diffusion line bandwagon (most recently it was Alexander McQueen with his McQueen line) and rolled out what I presume is a less pricey range - imaginatively named Galliano.

The pictures of the clothes were accompanied by breathless pronouncements from the Elle editor ("sweet yet subversive", diehard fans "won't be disappointed"), but the clothes were underwhelming at best, and at its worst, I was cringing at the lack of effort.

Galliano appears to be a dumping ground for hits John Galliano has created before in previous collections. This ripped striped sweater, for example, appeared on Dior runways last fall -

And the silhouette of this floral dress is also familiar, though I can't quite place it -

Neither are particularly outstanding, and truth be told, it looks like something from some cheap chain store like Forever 21 or Wetseal. Optimistically speaking, it could be the crap photography, but it's letting Mr Galliano off too easy to suggest that it's just bad lighting. I mean, reproducing old favourites is a no-brainer, but from a creative force like Mr Galliano, one has the right to expect more. And why does it look so cheap?
I'm especially offended by this -

I mean, it looks like something Nicky Hilton tries to hawk under her Chick label. And this jacket just chucks a crest on a blazer, which is such a tired look -

I wasn't too impressed by the McQueen label, which on close examination appeared to be mainly made up lots of nonsensical "rocker" tees and bits of tartan, but this looks infinitely worse.

A high bar was set for diffusion labels after Marc by Marc Jacobs appeared on the scene, proving that diffusion labels can have personality while echoing the successful hallmarks of the main line -

Likewise, See by Chloe has done a nice job of producing reliable Chloe favourites with flair -

And even Michael Michael Kors successfully reproduces Michael Kors' jet-set chic at a lower price without sacrificing his trademark luxe simplicity. His handbags, in particular, are worth a mention -
Pieces from a diffusion line should be able to stand next to a designer's main line without looking like an inferior embarrassing cousin. It's disappointing if a designer doesn't exercise the same rigorous standards they would otherwise for their main collections when it comes to design - it feels a bit like they're selling out.
I understand the need to take care of the commercial end of the business. If creating Galliano helps Mr Galliano continue to produce fantastical garments like this, then by all means do so -

But Michael Michael Kors, See by Chloe, and Marc by Marc Jacobs have demonstrated that you can do this tastefully and have a label fashion lovers are proud to wear with their luxury pieces.
A little more effort please, Mr Galliano.
Pictures from,,,


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