a winter's tale

Is it just me, or does Stefano Pilati do a far better job with the YSL Rive Gauche fall collections than he does with spring collections? I never understand why, at the thought of warmer weather, Mr Pilati starts to get all frou frou on me. And I use frou frou negatively.

But temperatures fall (global warming aside) and new ideas come to his head, and I am absolutely loving his latest collection for fall, just like I loved his collection last fall.

Back then, I wanted every single one of his tunics and suits and coats, and I still do. The tunic and skinny trouser was a smart new outfit for women who could adopt it as a uniform, and til now I still think it was awfully genius of Mr Piltati to articulate it so brilliantly before anyone else.

This season, his swingy dresses, one devastatingly nonchalant pantsuit with a skinny cropped trouser, and big and cropped coats for this season are clothes of the sort that could easily become a new uniform -

I also like how the dresses are cut away from the body, which works far better for me than all the body-conscious stuff going on elsewhere - I never went for the cinched waist look even though I admired it from afar - but there's a rigor to it and it's not the same as the flyaway girly feel you get at Chloe or Marni -

I love the sleek (but not simple) silhouettes, and I especially like his riff on the boyfriend jacket (a big theme running through quite a few shows) -

He's doing volume very beautifully - proving that it's not only about puff sleeves and bubble hems (which I detest) and infantile empire shifts. I love the look of a big boxy top over a slim skirt - which would also happily go with the narrow trousers and jeans we've all been accumulating ever since the skinny trend kicked in -

There's also some great skins -

And everything feels wonderfully Saint Laurent without being excessively homage-y and there is absolutely NOTHING retro about the feel of the collection, unlike his decidedly retro spring collection.

After the frippery (and occasionally trussed turkey look) of last season, it's a great big stride forward for a cool, smart woman with things to do. And just when I thought I couldn't take anymore fog-hued collections, Mr Pilati steps forward and reminds me why it's one of my favourite colours.

If after all this he goes back to doing flouncy dresses and and more flouncy dresses, I would weep.

Pictures from www.style.com