after the headache

Being a bit flu-ish yesterday, I couldn't really bring myself to look hard at the Missoni collection - there just seemed to be waaaaay too much going on.
Feeling somewhat better today, I ventured a second look at a label I always felt affection for - how not to like all that irresistible colour and print? And Angela Missoni does them so well.
Unfortunately, I came to the same conclusion - there is just far, far, far too much going on - what's the deal with that painful-looking lattice belt thing? Or that wide leather tie-belt thing? Why so many scarf-ties all around the body over the dresses? Are those fur cuffs or fur-trimmed gloves? And why would you put them altogether, over those fabulous prints and truly truly excellent 70s' colours? (Note: Unlike what most of my friends think, I do wear colour, but only of the muted awkward 70s' sort. So don't blame me for swapping the fire-engine red Topshop dress you guys got me for a cream linen jacket okay?)
I could go on in this vein for quite bit, but why start the new year (by the Lunar calendar) or a new season on so much negativity? And consider it an achievement on Ms Missoni's part that there is still plenty to admire (and buy; Missoni is one VERY shoppable label) from the collection. And reinforcing what I was saying in an earlier post about prints, it's really nice to have something else to look at apart from, you know, grey woolly things.
The hit of the collection for me has to be this fantastic colour-block leather coat -

Less patch-work and somewhat more Art Deco, it's the kind of winter coat that stands out without being too statement and would work pretty well on its own or over something else.
Indeed, sidetracking from my main point about the fine Missoni prints, the cover-ups of the show were very much standouts -

The use of fur here feels inventive simply because it doesn't look precious, savage, or too haute - it looks nonchalant, cozy, and plush. I want to hug them.
And of course, going back to the prints, there was lots of great dresses that referenced the nostalgic but managed not look too retro -

All in all, if you ignored a lot of the extras, it was a great show. More than most designers, Ms Missoni knows how to move the use of print forward, and without sacrificing the covetability element. With Missoni, there's no need to put on overblown abstracts or multi-ethnic references. Just give her a bunch of colours and watch her spin her magic.

Pictures from


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