little girls grow up

There was definitely this collegiate air wafting about at the New York fashion shows. Schoolgirls of all varieties showed up on the catwalks, and this is a good thing because it means designers have stopped doing entire collections based on cocktail wear.

There were schoolgirls of the playful Gallic sort at DKNY -

I especially like this tweed suit, it's so Chanel-inspired but less stiff somehow.

Less French hauteur, and more American casual I suppose.
Marc Jacobs also did a very Euro-inspired collection (shades of 40s/70s' movie star glamour, in bright pop colours), with what looked like a few American girls doing a junior year abroad making an appearance -

Alice Roi's schoolgirls had a somewhat more contemporary and yet rustic charm; they look like the sort of girls who study in a big city, but would happily take walks in the forest to write a poem or two -

The schoolgirls at Rag & Bone went for more tailored, strict stuff -

While at 3.1 Phillip Lim, rebellion was the order of the day, with girls wandering around looking delightfully disheveled in slouchy preppy separates -

It's great that the playful, girly mood defined by trapeze dresses and chiffon rosettes have evolved into more serious stuff (the flower girl of summer is heading to college for fall if you will). This whole thing began when baby dolls showed up last fall and kicked off the crave for infantile looks, so it's a relief to see a new kind of sophistication appear on the runways, with plenty of youthful kick.

Unlike last fall where the styles seemed more strictly defined by age - the older women went to YSL for strict tunics and suits; young women flocked to Fendi and Miu Miu for babydolls - this fall offers something of a compromise. Minidresses paired with leggings continued to be abound, but there were definitely some joys all women could share. Lovely.

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