battle studies

In spite of the tremendous heat and the last I want being thinking about warm clothing, Dries Van Noten's fall (a very very alien concept at this point) collection gave me the kind of jolt that made me sit up straight and take in every detail, absorbing the wonderful lesson in modernity and inspiration.

The silhouette references the past, but it's done in a non-nostalgic way, classic without being a homage or costume-y. The tailoring is precise but casual and I love the clean neutral colours with lush texture mixed in here and there.

I'm not a fan of khaki and military touches, but Dries Van Noten makes it relevant (as opposed to literal and kitsch) by using as a rugged touch here and there, and there's also his deft way with referencing the relaxed swagger of athletic gear (those loose t-shirts) without it being looking obviously "sporty". It's a confident look for an assured woman who doesn't need to assert by being aggressive.

And of course, there's his superb colour sense and dab hand at mixing in textures and patterns.

It's a wonderful response to the military thing that's all over the place (cargo pockets and epaulets lazily added everywhere) and his is a meaningful, distinct voice, showing us how it can be done with in a subtle, elegant and timeless way. I am in awe.

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