peter som better as peter som? not necessarily...

I read on stylebubble lately about how interesting it would be to see designers like Nicolas Ghesquiere design their own lines, as opposed to designing for a house like Balenciaga with its inescapable aesthetical heritage, and while it is certainly a point worth wondering, I have to say that perhaps for a designer whose own style has yet to properly emerge, perhaps it is better for them to hone their skills at a more established label? This train of thought, I admit, is not the result of any proper analysis or thought, it just popped up as I scanned through the debut collection Peter Som did for Bill Blass for prefall (above). I like it much more than I typically like Mr Som's own collections, but maybe it's because the sportswear aspect that is classic Bill Blass has toned down the overt prettiness that puts me off Mr Som's own designs. In addition, I think it's wonderful to see designers with obviously a mind of their own give their spin on a house with long-established traditions - Riccardo Tisci, whatever you say about his designs for Givenchy, has given the venerable label an energy not seen since Alexander McQueen took on those reins; Alber Elbaz did a great job at YSL and has worked even greater magic since he took over at Lanvin; Stefano Pilati, slowly, but surely, is giving YSL a pretty good shake-up too. True, working at a big label has its commercial considerations/restrictions but it's not always a bad thing to bring lofty avant garde visions down to earth from time to time - if a designer can achieve the same level of creativity within limits as he/she would without any constraints, surely it's a worthy feat in itself?

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